Proper pool maintenance, which provides swimmers with healthy, clear water, requires a modest investment of time. Improper maintenance requires perhaps more time, if you count the long moments you will spend fretting over green water or worrying about swimmers who complain of stinging eyes and itchy skin.
Pool upkeep is not a mysterious or difficult proposition. Once a basic understanding of the process is achieved, you, the pool owner, take control of the situation to prevent problems before they happen or correct those that do occur. The following questions and answers will take you through the basic steps to understanding your pool.
What do I need to do to open my pool in the spring?
When the weather starts getting warm enough, begin by removing the pool cover. Hose off the cover thoroughly and lay it out to dry before storing it. Next, reconnect the pump and filter, checking that any winter plugs are removed from the pool's inlet and outlet and that the filter equipment is complete, with skimmer baskets, etc. Add water to the pool to bring the level up to the proper height, usually to the middle of the skimmer opening. Then take a slow and thoughtful walk around the pool, checking the pool and accessories (such as the ladder and deck) for damaged or loose parts and any other problems that may have cropped up. Now you're ready to shock the pool.
Shock the pool? What is that, and how and when is it done?
Shocking, or super-chlorination is simply the addition of extra chlorine -- three to five times the normal dose -- to kill off the small percentage of pool contaminants that survive routine chlorination. Shocking is also used to counteract a buildup of contaminants when the chlorine has been reduced, as over winter or following heavy use. Swimming must not be allowed until the chlorine level returns to normal (between 1.0 and 2.0 parts per million). Super-chlorination can be done at any time, but is best done after sundown to avoid sunlight which will more quickly dissipate the chlorine.
Does sunlight affect chlorine?
Yes. The sun's ultraviolet rays dissipate chlorine, but chlorine stabilizer is available to help counteract this.
What does chlorine do? Is it the only chemical I have to check?
Chlorine is a disinfectant, it kills germs and algae. Bromine is also sometimes used as a disinfectant but it is more expensive than chlorine and more affected by ultraviolet rays. Bromine's advantage is that, unlike chlorine, it doesn't cause eye irritations or odor problems. But chlorine (or bromine) is just one component of a system to keep you pool water balanced. A properly balanced pool is clean, clear, and neither excessively alkaline or acidic. Check the pH, total alkalinity, iron, and other mineral content and hardness. Each pool is unique, requiring its own particular ongoing treatment, so no one system is possible for all pools.
How do I begin?
To begin, you must calculate the size of your pool. You must know how much water the pool contains in order to add the proper amount of chemicals according to manufacturer's instructions. In addition to knowing how many gallons of pool water you own, you need a good test kit to know how those gallons are doing. The most basic test kit measures chlorine and pH. To get the best possible test results, take a sample of your pool water to your local pool supply store and ask them to test the water on the Water Wizard, today's most advanced water analyzer. The Water Wizard will test for free chlorine, combined chlorine, iron, chlorine stabilizer, total hardness, pH, total alkalinity, and metals such as copper and manganese. When completed, the Water Wizard will give you a printout and a list of the specific chemicals needed to correct any problems that exist.
I've heard of pH. What does it mean?
This is a system for measuring the ratio of acidity to alkalinity. A scale of numbers from 1 to 14 represents the relative alkalinity (numbers over 7) or acidity (numbers below 7). Distilled water, for example, measures pH 7, a neutral state (the amounts of alkali and acid are equal). Pool water should be maintained between 7.2 and 7.6. The ideal measurement is 7.5, the approximate pH of the human eye.
What will happen if the pH is wrong? And what should I do to correct it ?
Incorrect pH is a frequent cause of pool problems because it dramatically affects the pool's overall balance. As the pH drops below 7.2 chlorine dissipates rapidly, increasing maintenance costs. Also, eye irritation can result. At a level of 7.0 the water will be too acidic for swimming and begins to harm the pool surfaces and equipment. On the other hand, as the pH goes over 7.6 the disinfectant power of the chlorine is hampered, and more chlorine is required to produce the proper bactericidal action. Symptoms of excessive alkalinity include itchy skin, cloudy water, and scaling on pool walls and equipment.
Incorrect pH is adjusted with alkali (to increase pH) or acid (to lower pH). Soda ash (sodium carbonate) can be used to raise a low pH reading. To lower pH, use dry sodium bisulphate. These acids are very toxic and should be handled carefully -- wear safety glasses and rubber gloves and dispense the chemicals around the pool, making sure they mix well with the water. Have the filter on for circulation, but don't add acid through the skimmer as it can damage the filtering equipment. Wipe up or wash off any spills immediately.
Will acid rain affect my pool water?
Yes, rain water (acid rain or not) can affect your pH reading. Frequent monitoring -- twice a week -- in the summer is suggested for pH, free chlorine, and total alkalinity.
What is total alkalinity?
Total alkalinity (or TA) is a measurement of all alkali compounds in the water. The TA is responsible for the amount of fluctuation in your pool's pH level. The acceptable range for TA is somewhere between 80 and 100 parts per million depending on your particular pool conditions. Generally, if your pH tends to be too high, your TA is too high too, while pH that tends to drop quickly indicates too low TA.
Is there anything else I should monitor in my pool water?
Yes, iron. If your water appears a bit green or you see stains on the walls, stairs, ladders, etc., you may well have too much iron in the water. Ideally, you should have 0.2 parts per million or less in your water. If you have more than this, you should get rid of the excess by adding flocculants to attract the iron minerals suspended in the water. These larger masses then come out of suspension in the water and sink to the pool floor, where they can be vacuumed or removed through filtering.
Is that everything?
There is just one more factor to be concerned with: calcium hardness. This determines whether the water is hard or soft. Soft water has too little calcium and is corrosive, while hard water can cause scale to form on pool surfaces and equipment. Calcium hardness generally remains relatively stable in your pool, so it only needs to be checked every few weeks.
Pool experts vary in their recommendations for calcium hardness -- the range is usually between 200 and 500 parts per million. A more exact measurement is dependant on the pH and total alkalinity of your pool. These three factors -- pH, TA, and calcium hardness -- must be properly adjusted to achieve balanced water. Thus, the amount of calcium your water needs can vary with the exact measurement of your pH and TA. As with total alkalinity, your best bet is to consult with your pool dealer to determine the proper calcium level for your pool and the best method for establishing balanced water. Once your water is balanced, maintenance is greatly simplified.
The steps, walls, and ladders in my pool are slippery & What can I do?
This is a sign of algae, a persistent plant life that floats in the water and clings to the pool surface. Other signs of algae are spots on the pool walls and green or cloudy water. Algae can quickly take over your pool and always requires immediate action: the quicker you catch it, the easier it is to treat. Algae thrives in water with high pH and low free chlorine. Its growth is encouraged by sunlight and heat. To treat algae, lower the pH to 7.4 or 7.2 and shock the pool. After shocking, scrub the pool surfaces thoroughly with a brush and vacuum. Run the filter continuously throughout treatment, keeping an eye on filter pressure and backwashing as required. Killing off the algae can take several days, and swimming should not be allowed during this time. Repeat the treatment if necessary.
My pool has several unsightly stains. How can I remove them?
Pool stains are caused by a number of items or conditions, including metal objects, algae, mineral deposits, even leaves. Waterproof sandpaper is useful for removing stains from plastered concrete pools. Algae stains can be difficult, but you can attack them with an algae brush or pumice stone (don't use pumice on tile pools). With sandpaper or stone use care to prevent damage to the plaster and avoid creating crevices where algae can get a foothold. Painted pools can be cleaned with strong detergent.
On vinyl pools a soft nylon brush will take care of most stains. Pool surfaces and equipment are also susceptible to scale and stained or corroded fixtures. In most cases this problem is caused by unbalanced water. To treat, clean the affected areas and bring the water into balance as explained earlier.
I live in the Northeast. What is the proper procedure for closing my pool when the season is over?
First, it is not necessary, or even recommended, to empty your pool for winter as severe damage can result. Begin by cleaning the pool thoroughly by skimming and vacuuming. Next adjust the pH and super-chlorinate the water (some experts advise against shocking vinyl pools before winterizing because chlorine will sink in a cold pool and can bleach the liner -- check with your dealer).
Backflush the filter system and let the pool's water drain to the level suggested by your pool manual or dealer (usually to just below the water inlet jets). Disconnect electrical power to the pump, drain the pump and filter, and if it is outdoors, bring it in where it will not be subject to freezing temperatures. If your pool has a heater, turn off the electrical or gas service and winterize the heater according to manufacturer's instructions. All water must be removed from the pool plumbing. The best way to do this is by introducing air pressure to the pipes to blow out the water.
Remove ladders and other equipment from in and around the pool. Ice expansion is controlled with the use of airbags or pillows centered atop the pool's water. Finally, cover the pool, and secure the cover according to manufacturer's directions, with water or sand bags. Periodically throughout the winter check your pool for any damage that might occur from winter weather.
Some pools require further preparation for winter such as removal of pool lights or skimmer protection. The first time you winterize your pool it is wise to have it done professionally, so you can watch and learn. Or, have a professional pool maintainer come and give you a step-by-step run-down of the procedure for your pool. Improper winterizing can severely damage your pool. Proper winterizing not only protects the investment you have in your pool, it paves the way for easier opening in the spring. |
Qualco Inc.
